The Pitons!

With friends, Rick and Mimi, aboard we make a quick morning trip into the sleepy little village of St Anne on the Southern tip of Martinique. We are headed for St Lucia today and need baguettes and customs clearance. ( Need is the operative word, we won’t see these precious bakery goods for several month when we return in the winter…there is nothing like them , except for in France I guess) It’s crazy, but again we arrive after 8 am and find the first round of baguettes and pastries are scarcely available. We are not the only connoisseurs. We scramble from shop to shop get lucky on a warm crispy baguette, and spend a few moments looking at local art and craft. Oh and just a couple more bottles of French red wine, as well, to get us to Grenada!

Once the anchor was up we had sails out and with a 190 degree heading for our 20 nm sail to Rodney Bay. The seas are 4-6 ft and wind 15-17 knots from the East, so we have a nice reach with all the sails, as we cross the Martinique-St Lucia channel. We always hope for comfortable sailing for our friends. The water is that deep blue as the gentle swells and waves ride up under Lost Loon, taking us on what we used to call ‘whoopsie hills’ as kids. The air is warm and comfortable at sail. The hours pass quickly as we discuss weather , life and the dreaded subject of politics! We manage to make St Lucia in just under 4 hours and find a good anchorage spot off Reduit Beach. There’s a good showing here and the resorts seem active along the water. By late afternoon we managed to get into customs, the hardware store, and the huge Massey grocery for some of the foods we’ve missed over the few months, and back to the boat for sunset. We are rewarded for our efforts with a lovely evening seascape…hues of pink and orange set the sky afire as late coming ships make anchor for the night.

The following day we would move along south a few miles to Marigot bay for hiking, swimming, snorkeling and happy hour with a couple games of pool at Doolittles Bar. We have found this great hike from Mango Inn to the ridge that overlooks Marigot. as instructed we close the gate (to keep the dogs in) and gather whatever walking sticks are available to assist our morning adventure. The trail manages to gain elevation quickly as you walk up the steepness, stepping up onto the rocks, holding on the roots, and finally near the top there is a rope that runs laterally to pull oneself up huge boulders. The blue sky quickly comes into view above head as we take the last giant steps. We are appreciative of the folks at the Inn who maintain this trail. The ridge trail now take us to what is known as the meditation platform, a beautiful overlook of Marigot Bay. We can see the sailboats moored and at anchor along with the enormous motor yachts docked in the marina. As we walk westerly on the trail,it takes us on a gentle downslope back to the bay where we are anxious to get back to the boat for a swim. This afternoon we make our plans for heading to new anchorages in the south of St Lucia near the Pitons.

We count 5 trips north and south we have come past this island in the last 3 years and sailed right by the huge Pitons that stand guard off the southwest coast of the island.As in other locations, we have heard of some unsafe locations for anchoring and probably been overly cautious. But, we have recently talked to other cruisers who have been here and said it was completely safe we pick up anchor the next morning for one of 2 anchorages..between the Pitons or one north of Soufrier. The weather is overcast with a few scattered showers. This doesn’t change the beauty of the land and sea, but gives it a unique ethereal appearance. The clouds holding onto the rainforest moisture hang over the high mountains and slowly sink dreamily to the sea. We try to locate the moorings just north of Soufrier, but the ones we can find are too close to a huge jetty, so we head for the mooring between the Pitons. Here we have to take a mooring because the water death is well over 50 ft. Since we need to have at least 5:1 ratio of chain to depth, our adequate 250 ft of chain in the locker is not quite enough. Like entering the Land of Oz our tiny sailboat glides between these huge mountainous structures. From the bow and the stern we crane our necks skyward to get the full view and its pretty awesome. There are truly no photo that can really capture this.

We explore the ocean depths by skin diving and snorkeling along the Gros Piton, go ashore to check out the resort nestled here. The following morning the Lost Loon crew have plans to walk to the hot springs. We get directions from trip advisor and also stop at the resort office to verify the plan. It is naturally a steep walk out of the resort with roads switching back and forth as well as straight up. To our surprise, once past the resort gate the road takes a turn left and steep downhill about 1/4 mile to the entrance to the hot Springs. It’s $5 dollars to enter and we can stay as long as we wish….and we do. The water coming out of the waterfall is nearly 95

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Carriacou diving and Lionfish ceviche!!

Hey friends, Happy Sunday!!!

Before we get to the travelogue portion of the blog, I wanted to let you know I’m working on the image here. I’m excited to share some of a new platform for Apparently Sailing. I will be adding interviews with sailing folks, recipes, podcasts and books we’re reading. Of course, I’ll keep you up on the latest adventures both land and sea.

August 10, morning temp on Lake Vermilion 49!

So, an interesting aside…

There is this whole world of blogging experts (podcasts, websites and of course bloggers blogging about blogging!) out there ALL over the world 🌎! And they actually make money helping us write better, get more followers, and for some …..MAKE Money! Ha! Well, I just want to have fun and share our experiences in hopes that we can inspire others to throw off the lines and sail away! So, it doesn’t have to be sailing. You say really? That’s why I’m reading… No! I would hope that this can inspire anyone to take that opportunity to step outside their comfort zone and head East… or West… or start a blog, apply for that dream job, take that well earned vacation, or create a lifestyle you have imagined!!!

Just today we were at Menards ( Home Depot of the northland) and noticed this gal parked next to us with a gorgeous red golden retriever. I commented on how much he looked like our first golden Buck.

Sooo long ago!

We shared our love stories for our dogs and she asked us if we had thought of adopting another. We explained that we lived on a sailboat for 6 months out of the year and taking care for a big dog would be difficult (/however we do have friends that do it quite well) when she exclaimed ” how did you get that gig?” We gave her the abbreviated version of our transformation from land-loving Wisconsinites to vagabonds. She commended us on the courage to make that change. We’ll both admit that the lifestyle isn’t always roses and champagne, ( like trying to get to Menards today from our lake cottage a story for another blog post) …but it’s what we dreamed of and were sooooo fortunate to make a reality! Did we have a fortune? No! We made our sacrifices paid off the bills and took a chance. A chance that we would love sailing, be a bit less construct in our plans, and be able to tolerate each other 24/7…… literally. We have found a lifestyle that fits us both. And, that is what I hope, that someone who happens onto this blog might be inspired to achieve as well.

Ok, on with the travel update…..our sailing season in May ended on a beautiful note with meeting some great friends and doing some awesome diving. We met Brian and Shelly on SV Aria in Bequia. They love diving as much as we do and had planned an outing upon our arrival in Carriacou, Grenada.

Lumbadive dock, Carriacou….awaiting divers!

We signed up with Lumbadive ( check them out here)to take us on a full 2 tank dive at the Sisters Rocks. Diane was a superb dive master and assisted by Raquel we were in excellent hands. We explored some awesome underwater topography seeing tons of lobster, rays,and reef fish!

On the second dive of the day, Mike was given the opportunity to hunt lionfish! These pesky creatures and serve no purpose but to destroy much of the marine life in the Caribbean. So with a pole-spear in hand he carefully eliminated over a dozen of these predators.

Following the dive, we made plans to celebrate Shelly’s birthday. We were delightfully surprised to get the lionfish filets, a few limes ( from Diane’s tree) and have our dive master join us for the party! We had a grand turn-out hosted by Brian who cooked for us. Mike made lionfish ceviche. The evening ended with Brian on the ukulele and banjo as the rest of us singing away in the cockpit of their spacious Hylas! A memorable night!

The Entertainers!! Brian and Shelly, SV Aria

RECIPE

Lionfish ( or other fresh fish ) Ceviche

3-4 cups of chopped fresh seafood or fish

Juice from 3-4 fresh limes

Salt

3-4 cups of an even mixture of chopped cucumber, avocado, onion, tomato, seeded jalapeño( amount depending on your desire for the heat) red or orange pepper. ( feel free to add mango or papaya!!)

Several sprigs of fresh cilantro or shado benne, chopped.

First, stir the fresh and chopped fish into the juice of the limes. Let this sit for 10 min to 30 min in the refrigerator. You can chop and prepare the other vegetables at this time and combine in a separate bowl until the fish has cured in the lime juice.

When the fish has cured, it turns from a transparent to a translucent color and more firm texture. It can now be drained and combined with the chopped vegetables, salt to taste, and more jalapeño ( as desired). Serve with tortilla chips as an appetizer or on a bed of lettuce as a salad. See the post from Serious Eats for a compendium on ceviche.

Media

Currently reading: The Echo Maker by Richard Powers and World Cruising Routes by Jimmy Cornell

Just finished: Peace Like A River by Leif Enger

Podcasts: Singlehanded Sailor, Matt Rutherford. On the Wind podcast, Andy Schell

Please comment! I would love to hear from you!

Live in the Sunshine, Swim in the Ocean, and Drink in the Wild Air” – Ralph Waldo Emerson