Making the Rhumb line

0630. Coffee is pressed.  We’re up to listen to the weather for the northeast Caribbean on Marine Weather Center broadcast. In particular we have been watching for a window to move from St Martin to Guadeloupe in our quest to get to Grenada by mid April. The forecast  is for moderating winds and seas. This means it’s not blowing in the 20s and seas are settling to under 8 feet. The next 2 days are a go. But we can see we won’t leave right away due to gray skies and approaching rain. We have supplied the dinghy with fuel, done the laundry, said our goodbyes to sailing friends we will see next season,   and most importantly procured some of the best cheap French wine and delicious baguettes for the trip.

0730 Another rain squall moves through and we busy about the boat securing cabinets and anything that has the potential to become airborne on a 20 degree heel in waves. Mike plots a course on Windy, and looking at the models shows me we could be in for squalls tonite after passing St Barts. So we’ll have to watch the sky. No use running into trouble if there’s no need.

0915 Coffee cups stowed. Refrigerator is arranged for easy acess to our passage meal and lunches. Jacklines in place. Life jackets , harness, and rain gear accessible. Skies have cleared and its time to pull the anchor on St Martin. We bid adieu to Friars Bay, our secret hideout these last couple of weeks.

1015 We begin our second tack in an attempt to make our way around the northeast headland of St Martin (SXM). Winds are not in our favor here but we have committed to this course. Wind is 15-19 knots. There is a catamaran on the same trajectory behind us. We are betting he gives into the motor soon.

1050 Tack #3 completed now into 8 ft seas. We calculate we can make the passage between the NE corner of the island and Tintamarre ( Island off-lying SXM to the north and east).

1135 Behind Tintamarre we have a brief respite in calm seas and a nice 17 knots of wind. The Lost Loon is crisply cutting the waters. This feels great! As always we say ” if it’s like this the whole way, we’ve got it made!” We get visited by a dolphin playing and surfing our wake! She only stays for 5 minutes and darts out of sight. We have a rhumb line to St Barths.

1200 Wind drops to 8 knots after passing Tintamarre. ( The wind is ever changing!) Our speed drops to 3 knots and we are bobbing in the waves. The engine is engaged and the genoa furled because it’s just flapping aimlessly. This gets us to 5 knots until our wind returns. We always know it will…it’s just a matter of time.

1230 Wind pipes up to 12, then 13 true wind. We unfurl the genoa and cut the engine. Speed 5 knots now sailing again.

Il Forchue

1400 Passing Il Forchue, island that is part of St Barths. We see clouds forming to the East. Not ominous. We then sail past a very crowded Gustavia for an anchorage to the south, Governors. Upon arrival the seas and wind are directed right into the waters here and after 5 min we decide it will be too rolly overnight and we need sleep. We turn around and head back to Gustavia and pray there is a little spot for the Lost Loon to wedge into for the night. We make a serpentine to the right and left off the main channel and decide to be right off the 2nd channel marker .


1800 The sun begins to set and those clouds have formed to the south and appear darker. We can see the muted island forms of Saba and Statia in the distance. We are happy with the decision to stay here. We don’t intend to go ashore , so technically we can raise the Q flag and leave in the morning.

1930 Daylight has disappeared and several hundred anchor lights dot the proximal sky. Dinner tonite was to have been chicken stew we prepared prior to leaving SXM, so we could just reheat while sailing. We save that for the next day and opt for some simple pork tacos and beans.

2130 Bedtime . Tomorrow’s passage will be 115 miles. That’s an overnight because it exceeds how far we can typically travel in 12 hours of daylight. We look forward to being back in Guadeloupe. We haven’t been there since 2019.

Making the Rhumb line to Guadeloupe day 2 next.


One thought on “Making the Rhumb line

  1. nsherman

    I LOVE the daily/hourly journey, Nancy!!! So fun to “be there on the voyage with you !!” Safe sailing and looking forward to next entry!


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